Mexico Surfing

3rd January 2007 – 10th February 2007 

I decided not too turn up to my LA to Calgary flight due to having no decision back on my Canada work visa. I saw it pointless to go back to -40 degrees in Canada, broke and unable to work. It made more sense to be broke in Mexico, and head to the beach with Lucy, learn how to surf and live off $10 a day in a tent.

 Lucy was a friend from the snowboard season in Banff, but we had grown up in the same home town. She had no plans and was up for a surf mission. So with my tent (minus a few poles) I had inherited from the previous chapter, we did an overnight bus mission to a small surf town called Nextpa on the Pacific Coast.

La Casa de Lucia y Marcos Lucy settling into our Nextpa nook

After changing buses 4 times over the night, we finally got a small local bus that dropped us on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. The bus driver pointed to an inconspicuous cobblestone road and said “Nextpa”. We hauled on our packs as the sun had just started to rise. We walked the 20 mins down into the village.

 The first person we met was Lilly, who showed us some camp sites on the beach, but he said he also had some camp sites if we wanted to see them. He was such a sincere, honest and friendly guy, a person you just want to hug. A person the world needs more of. It was love it first sight, our new home, we had an isolated camp spot at the end of the beach, with Palapa (stick struture with palm roof), 2 hammocks, table and chairs. All for the price of $1.50 each a night.

Wandering on the Nextpa sands Breakfast is served

It was just what the doctor ordered. After 5 weeks of body and credit card abuse the previous chapter, I couldn’t think of a better place in the world to wait for my Canadian visa to be processed.

A week later I got word from Canada that my work visa had been refused. It was a funny feeling, here was the perfect job, a job I loved to do, paid great money that would allow me to work 4 months of the year and travel the remaining 8 months. I had all my belongings and room awaiting for my return. And now with one email, I found out that I have no job, no money and I’m stuck in Mexico.

I felt bloody fantastic! Once again I felt free, no plans, nothing holding me down, anything was possible. I would see sailing boats in the harbour and think to myself ‘if they need an extra crew member to help them go down to Argentina, I can do it, I’m free’. The wonderful feeling of an uncertain future and endless possibilities filled the short lived void of my visa disappointment.

On the surf mission Hitchhiking

Lucy and I hired surfboards for a week. We stayed in Nextpa, a little surf village, 50 people, with a few chilled out surfies staying along the beach in rustic cabanas (huts).  No electricity, no fridge, no shower, no flush toilet, no bed, great people, it was paradise. The 2 weeks in Nextpa, I learnt to surf (big thanks to Karlye and Shevs for the pointers in Sayulita), the friendly surfers there giving me pointers as we sat out back waiting for sets to come. My last night there as the sunset, I rode my last wave (nothing Kelly Slater like) all the way into the beach, I couldn’t think of a better send off.

Lucy and I hitched and bused our way further down the Pacific Coast stopping off in Zihautenejo and Puerto Escondido. In Puerto, I forked out $70 from my last $150 and bought a surfboard, well actually it was two surfboards, it was the nose of one surfboard and a tail from another that had been put back together.

Waiting for a ride, traveling with a board is a pain in the …. Hap you look like a surfer until you get in the water!

With further surf trips up to beautifully isolated Chacaywa (not totally sure of spelling), and back to Puerto, it was time for Lucy and I to take different paths. Lucy had met a girl and was going to stay with her. I had a new chapter waiting for me in the south of Mexico.

After leaving Lucy, I spent a further week stopping off in small surf spots along the Pacific Coast. By this point I was looking like a bedraggled hippy. I hadn’t shaved for 5 weeks, no shower for 7 weeks (had been in ocean most days), hadn’t washed clothes for 5 weeks, and my once Italian pornstar like curly locks were just a matted mess. I now just slept on my extremely dirty duvet (I also used the pass me down duvet to wrap my board in when hitching) on the beach, not bothering to set up the tent. I had lost my jandals (flip flops), so had no shoes. I must of been a sight with my thumb out on the side of the road, and walking barefooted with my pack and duvet wrapped surfboard wandering through the bigger towns on my pilgrimage south.

Chacaywa Sunsets The footsteps of the nude hippy hap

The hippy was really starting to come out in me, I had even started wandering naked on isolated beaches. So before I started hugging trees and becoming attracted to woman with hairy armpits, I was rescued. Andy, an Australian guy who I had met through my Australian friends from Banff, picked me up in a van and drove me the 8 hours south to the Guatemalan boarder to start my next chapter -and have a wash.


3 Responses to “Mexico Surfing”

  1. Jerry at 5:11 pm #

    하이, 햅 ! 나는 이재면 입니다. 석천 축구회
    스트라이커. 하하하 사진 잘 보고 갑니다.
    또 구경 올께요 !

    • Reegan at 11:46 pm #

      I feel so much happier now I unedrsantd all this. Thanks!

  2. Hap at 3:57 pm #

    Annyong Jerry.

    I’m surprised I can still read hangul, its been awhile. Some beautiful photo’s, a bit like Jeju aye?

    Seokchon Fighting!

    Hap the striker haha

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